May 13, 2014
Tuesday morning after breakfast, the organized ballet of another flight begins. Our bags are picked up and handled for us (the next time we see them they'll be in our cabin on the ship), we boarded Jack's Bus, had another box lunch (this one completely inedible) on the way to the airport, retrieved our boarding passes, cleared security, walked to the gate, and boarded our plane for the short flight to Chongqing, where we will board the Viking Emerald.
I'm really looking forward to the cruising part of our tour. We've been pretty much living out of our suitcases up to now, so it will be nice to have the time in one place to unpack. I'm hopeful that the air on the river will be cleaner, and I'm definitely looking forward to a little more leisure time.
Jack has explained the policy regarding wine on the boat. Basically, "house" wines at lunch and dinner are included with our cruise package. He doesn't know what these wines will be, but usually they're "local" wines. I'm a bit concerned by this, but I've also heard that there are usually some California wines on the ships. Still, we talk the driver into stopping at a small store on the way to the ship, where we pick up a couple of bottles of French Bordeaux for the room. Others are stocking up on flavored vodkas and the local firewater. Jack warns us not to purchase the alcohol and wine sold at the markets set up at each of the ship's stops, as it's generally counterfeit.
Once we board the ship, I head immediately to the little self-serve coffee area and find some instant ramen noodles, as I'm starving from missing lunch. I enjoy them sitting on the sundeck, and then we head off to explore the small ship. It's definitely small, and we run into Kathy and Larry in the lounge, where we all look into the Silver Package, Viking's unlimited premium spirits package for our cruise. I sample the house red, learn that the house white is a Chardonnay (which I don't like), and decide that the package is worth the money for us. Kathy and Larry agree, and Lois (not her Chinese name), the extremely personable head bartender, takes care of the details, while pouring a nice Marlboro Savignon Blanc for me, a capirinha for David, and Tsingtao beer for Kathy and Larry. Bowls of spicy peanuts and pistachios are brought and kept constantly filled, and we relax until it's time to get cleaned up for dinner.
Seating in the dining room is open, with dinner served from 6:30 to 8:00, but everyone seems to arrive right at 6:30 or so. Lois has let us know that she also works the dining room for lunch and dinner, and that her tables are aft on the port side, so we head in that direction, where she sees us and leads us to Table 25. Our informal group of eight becomes more cohesive when we find that the tables in the dining room seat eight, and from that meal on, our group occupies table 25, with one very odd exception, which I'll explain in a later post. Our group now consists of Kathy and Larry (from Chicago), Bob and Nancy (from Asheville, NC), Richard and Cheri (from San Diego), and David and myself. Lois immediately begins pouring the wine; the four of us who have purchased the package enjoy a delicious French Bordeaux while the others enjoy the house wines, or the drinks they've brought with them from their rooms. I've not experienced a ship where you're welcome to bring your own alcohol on board, but that's the case with Viking.
Eddie and Lucy (not their Chinese names) are our waitstaff (Lois handles only the wine), and they are quite attentive to our needs. Dinner is always three courses, ordered from the menu and served by our waitstaff, while breakfast and lunch are a combination of buffet and items ordered from the menu. I choose a fish preparation from the menu this evening, but Lois has overserved me, as well as most of the others, so I really can't tell you a whole lot about it. In fact, I retire to the cabin before dessert, and sleep like a baby until about 4:30 AM, which seems to be my usual wake-up time on this trip.
Saturday, May 31, 2014
Friday, May 30, 2014
Oops!
I forgot something from our time in Beijing! On our last full day there, our bus driver was kind enough to make a little detour so that we could see the site of the 2008 Olympics. We saw the Cube, where Michael Phelps won his eight gold medals. We also saw the Bird's Nest, where the opening and closing ceremonies were held, as well as track and field events.
Here are a few pictures, taken from the bus. We didn't get really close, so the shots aren't that great.
Here are a few pictures, taken from the bus. We didn't get really close, so the shots aren't that great.
Tang Dynasty Dinner and Show
May 12, 2014
Following a brief rest at the hotel, we took the elevator up to the new bar and restaurant on the 51st floor of the Crowne Plaza for a glass of wine before we headed out to dinner. The bar provides a nice lounging area with a panoramic view of the city of Xian, which would be stunning were it not for the smog.
There we met our new friends Kathy and Larry, with whom before-dinner drinks would become a regular occurrence on the remainder of the trip. While we were there, their new French chef, Guillaume, introduced himself and welcomed us. He's a very personable fellow, who has been in China for about ten years, and is now operating the only French restaurant in Xian. Actually, it may be the only French restaurant in China; regardless, we had a very nice conversation with Guillaume about his life as a Frenchman in present-day China. As he had trained with Jean Georges and Paul Bocuse, I truly wish we had the opportunity to dine there, but with our schedule it just couldn't happen.
After our drinks, we took the glass elevator back down to the lobby, where we joined those of Jack's Group who were attending the optional Tang Dynasty Dinner and Show this evening. From 618-907 AD, the Tang Dynasty presided over one of China's most glorious cultural periods, and we were treated to a small sample of the song, dance, and gorgeous costumes of this era.
Instead of the usual one glass of soft drink policy, we were permitted unlimited soft drinks, along with unlimited "milky wine". We thought this would be like sake, but were quite disappointed when it was a warm sweet concoction, that didn't lend itself to unlimited consumption. The food was also not particularly memorable, but the show made up for what the meal lacked.
The show was narrated in English, which was very nice for us, and the music was provided by a live orchestra of traditional Tang Dynasty instruments. The costumes were absolutely gorgeous, so colorful and bright. Unfortunately, we forgot to bring our camera, and I only got a couple of shots with my phone. I did take a video, but the file is too large to email, and I can't get my usb connection to work right now. I'll keep working on it....
Following a brief rest at the hotel, we took the elevator up to the new bar and restaurant on the 51st floor of the Crowne Plaza for a glass of wine before we headed out to dinner. The bar provides a nice lounging area with a panoramic view of the city of Xian, which would be stunning were it not for the smog.
There we met our new friends Kathy and Larry, with whom before-dinner drinks would become a regular occurrence on the remainder of the trip. While we were there, their new French chef, Guillaume, introduced himself and welcomed us. He's a very personable fellow, who has been in China for about ten years, and is now operating the only French restaurant in Xian. Actually, it may be the only French restaurant in China; regardless, we had a very nice conversation with Guillaume about his life as a Frenchman in present-day China. As he had trained with Jean Georges and Paul Bocuse, I truly wish we had the opportunity to dine there, but with our schedule it just couldn't happen.
After our drinks, we took the glass elevator back down to the lobby, where we joined those of Jack's Group who were attending the optional Tang Dynasty Dinner and Show this evening. From 618-907 AD, the Tang Dynasty presided over one of China's most glorious cultural periods, and we were treated to a small sample of the song, dance, and gorgeous costumes of this era.
Instead of the usual one glass of soft drink policy, we were permitted unlimited soft drinks, along with unlimited "milky wine". We thought this would be like sake, but were quite disappointed when it was a warm sweet concoction, that didn't lend itself to unlimited consumption. The food was also not particularly memorable, but the show made up for what the meal lacked.
The show was narrated in English, which was very nice for us, and the music was provided by a live orchestra of traditional Tang Dynasty instruments. The costumes were absolutely gorgeous, so colorful and bright. Unfortunately, we forgot to bring our camera, and I only got a couple of shots with my phone. I did take a video, but the file is too large to email, and I can't get my usb connection to work right now. I'll keep working on it....
A Brief Interlude
On Wednesday David and I drove to Emerald Isle to help his mother fix some plumbing issues at her beach house. After getting the broken pipes repaired, we went out to a new restaurant.
Jackie's American Grille is located just on the island side of the Langston Bridge (no relation). We're always looking for good food at the beach, instead of the typical fried seafood platter or burger. We learned about Jackie's at the Beaufort Wine and Food Weekend where she was serving samples of her delicious Prawn and Avocado Ceviche. It was so delicious that I was determined to get there to try more of the menu.
We were seated at a nice table outdoors, and we each ordered a Lemon Jack Martini, Jackie's version of a Lemon Drop. It was pretty good, although not as good as what David makes here at home. Fresh lemon juice makes such a big difference, and I've yet to find a restaurant or bar that uses that. Most use the lemon-flavored vodkas, and it's just not the same. Still, the cocktail hit the spot, especially after dealing with broken pipes all afternoon.
David decided on a Cajun pasta dish, and I chose the Filet Oscar. My plan had been to try one of their seafood dishes, but the steak caught my fancy, perhaps after all the chicken and fish that I had eaten over the past two weeks. My filet was cooked exactly as I asked, on the rare side of medium-rare, and was served in a large shallow bowl over a layer of green onion hash browns. The filet was then topped with a generous amount of lump crabmeat, several perfectly cooked asparagus spears, and a nice bernaise sauce. I had anticipated taking half home for lunch the next day, but somehow the plate became empty, so that was not to be.
The only disappointment of the evening was their wine list. I ordered a glass of Cabernet, which seemed to be the best of the limited offerings of wines by the glass. It was ok, but certainly not on a par with the steak.
We're looking forward to a return visit when we're back at the beach.
Jackie's American Grille is located just on the island side of the Langston Bridge (no relation). We're always looking for good food at the beach, instead of the typical fried seafood platter or burger. We learned about Jackie's at the Beaufort Wine and Food Weekend where she was serving samples of her delicious Prawn and Avocado Ceviche. It was so delicious that I was determined to get there to try more of the menu.
We were seated at a nice table outdoors, and we each ordered a Lemon Jack Martini, Jackie's version of a Lemon Drop. It was pretty good, although not as good as what David makes here at home. Fresh lemon juice makes such a big difference, and I've yet to find a restaurant or bar that uses that. Most use the lemon-flavored vodkas, and it's just not the same. Still, the cocktail hit the spot, especially after dealing with broken pipes all afternoon.
David decided on a Cajun pasta dish, and I chose the Filet Oscar. My plan had been to try one of their seafood dishes, but the steak caught my fancy, perhaps after all the chicken and fish that I had eaten over the past two weeks. My filet was cooked exactly as I asked, on the rare side of medium-rare, and was served in a large shallow bowl over a layer of green onion hash browns. The filet was then topped with a generous amount of lump crabmeat, several perfectly cooked asparagus spears, and a nice bernaise sauce. I had anticipated taking half home for lunch the next day, but somehow the plate became empty, so that was not to be.
The only disappointment of the evening was their wine list. I ordered a glass of Cabernet, which seemed to be the best of the limited offerings of wines by the glass. It was ok, but certainly not on a par with the steak.
We're looking forward to a return visit when we're back at the beach.
Wednesday, May 28, 2014
Lunch or Dinner at a Local Restaurant - Take Two
May 12, 2014
After our exciting morning at the Terra Cotta Army museum, we had our usual lunch in a local restaurant. These meals are all so similar, and I don't generally take food pictures, so it's hard to report a lot about them. All are served on the traditional lazy susan, and usually start with soup that is served by the waiter or waitress. Then dish after dish of meats, veggies, and rice are placed on the lazy susan, which we whirl around willy-nilly, serving ourselves and talking about what we like and don't like. Dessert is almost always watermelon, which cleanses the palate without adding too much fullness. Most of these meals are quite similar and nothing to write home about.
There were a couple of notable meals of this type, but sadly I don't remember exactly when and where they took place. To be honest, we never knew the name of the restaurant where we ate; we just filed in wherever Jack's Bus took us. One meal was more seafood-based, so of course, I liked that a lot. My favorite item there was the whole prawns which were very lightly coated and deep-fried. At first we all tried to remove the shell from the shrimp without getting everything all over our hands (did I mention that the dinner napkins at a local restaurant are all the small cocktail size?). I looked at David and he looked at me, and we both agreed that these are supposed to be eaten whole: shell, head and all. Once we tried that, our portion was much larger, as no one else at our table was willing. Some did try the shells, but the heads were just to much for most. Too bad! Your loss! Crunchy, savory, and oh so tasty, these may be the best things I ate at a local restaurant.
Another memorable local meal with the dumpling meal, where everything was a dumpling, all served in bamboo steamers. These were delicious, and I loved trying the different but simple sauces that were served alongside. Some of the dumplings were shaped to resemble their filling: chicken-filled dumplings looked like little chickens, and duck-filled dumplings looked like little ducks. I did take a photo with my phone, so hopefully I can get that posted here. I'm not sure, but this may be the same meal where we were first introduced to Chinese Firewater, a 68-proof clear alcohol that is surprisingly tasty. Funny that soft drinks are so often limited to one glass per person, but the firewater was unlimited. No worries; it would be impossible to drink much of that!
After our exciting morning at the Terra Cotta Army museum, we had our usual lunch in a local restaurant. These meals are all so similar, and I don't generally take food pictures, so it's hard to report a lot about them. All are served on the traditional lazy susan, and usually start with soup that is served by the waiter or waitress. Then dish after dish of meats, veggies, and rice are placed on the lazy susan, which we whirl around willy-nilly, serving ourselves and talking about what we like and don't like. Dessert is almost always watermelon, which cleanses the palate without adding too much fullness. Most of these meals are quite similar and nothing to write home about.
There were a couple of notable meals of this type, but sadly I don't remember exactly when and where they took place. To be honest, we never knew the name of the restaurant where we ate; we just filed in wherever Jack's Bus took us. One meal was more seafood-based, so of course, I liked that a lot. My favorite item there was the whole prawns which were very lightly coated and deep-fried. At first we all tried to remove the shell from the shrimp without getting everything all over our hands (did I mention that the dinner napkins at a local restaurant are all the small cocktail size?). I looked at David and he looked at me, and we both agreed that these are supposed to be eaten whole: shell, head and all. Once we tried that, our portion was much larger, as no one else at our table was willing. Some did try the shells, but the heads were just to much for most. Too bad! Your loss! Crunchy, savory, and oh so tasty, these may be the best things I ate at a local restaurant.
Another memorable local meal with the dumpling meal, where everything was a dumpling, all served in bamboo steamers. These were delicious, and I loved trying the different but simple sauces that were served alongside. Some of the dumplings were shaped to resemble their filling: chicken-filled dumplings looked like little chickens, and duck-filled dumplings looked like little ducks. I did take a photo with my phone, so hopefully I can get that posted here. I'm not sure, but this may be the same meal where we were first introduced to Chinese Firewater, a 68-proof clear alcohol that is surprisingly tasty. Funny that soft drinks are so often limited to one glass per person, but the firewater was unlimited. No worries; it would be impossible to drink much of that!
Tuesday, May 27, 2014
Terra Cotta Army
May 12, 2014
Today is another much-anticipated event: our visit to the Terra Cotta Army museum. The ancient Chinese believed very strongly in the afterlife, and as soon as an emperor came into power, he would begin preparing his tomb. Each tomb contained everything the occupant would need to ensure his comfort and safety in the afterlife. Emperor Qin Shi Huang apparently felt it important to have his armies' protection; and thousands of soldiers, archers, horses and chariots, all fashioned of terra cotta clay, were buried with him more than two thousand years ago.
The site was discovered in 1978, when local farmers were digging a well. It was almost immediately turned over to the government, and excavation continued for many years. It was quickly discovered that exposure to the air and sunlight (apparently the pollution wasn't so bad back then) caused rapid deterioration of the soldiers, so huge buildings have been constructed around the actual site. It is in these buildings that the museum is housed. They are still finding more statues, and work on restoring them is ongoing.
I can't even begin to describe the spectacle; a picture is worth a thousand words. We took hundreds; here are a few:
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Today is another much-anticipated event: our visit to the Terra Cotta Army museum. The ancient Chinese believed very strongly in the afterlife, and as soon as an emperor came into power, he would begin preparing his tomb. Each tomb contained everything the occupant would need to ensure his comfort and safety in the afterlife. Emperor Qin Shi Huang apparently felt it important to have his armies' protection; and thousands of soldiers, archers, horses and chariots, all fashioned of terra cotta clay, were buried with him more than two thousand years ago.
The site was discovered in 1978, when local farmers were digging a well. It was almost immediately turned over to the government, and excavation continued for many years. It was quickly discovered that exposure to the air and sunlight (apparently the pollution wasn't so bad back then) caused rapid deterioration of the soldiers, so huge buildings have been constructed around the actual site. It is in these buildings that the museum is housed. They are still finding more statues, and work on restoring them is ongoing.
I can't even begin to describe the spectacle; a picture is worth a thousand words. We took hundreds; here are a few:
Bell Towers, Tea House, Box Lunch, and a Short Flight
May 11, 2014
After our delightful visit, the rickshaws carry us to a courtyard flanked by large bell towers, which were used in ancient times to mark the time, announce ceremonies, or call residents to prayer. Inside one of the buildings is a tea house; certainly not the traditional one, but one set up specifically for tourists. There we learn about and sample various types of teas, and are shown the proper way to brew each type. Of course, following the demonstration there's the inevitable opportunity to shop for the products we've just sampled, with, of course, a special discount just for our group.
I do wonder, however, why they served us multiple cups of tea when the Happy House is a 2-star accommodation, at best.
Today we will be flying to Xian; this is our first experience flying with the tour. Viking has a very well-organized system for this, and we definitely appreciate it. We're given color-coded tags for our suitcases; these will tell the Viking porters which hotel our bags will go to upon arrival in Xian. We were given our schedule last evening, and left our bags outside our hotel room door at the appropriate time. Jack has arranged with the airline to accept copies of our passports to issue our boarding passes. Once we get off our bus at the airport in Beijing, Jack is met by a Viking employee, who has already checked us all in and has all of our boarding passes. Our bags have been checked for us, and we head to our departure gate. Very smooth.
The downside is that there's not time for a sit-down lunch today, so we're given a box lunch to eat on the bus. Today's presentation isn't awful; the cheesecake makes up for the soggy sandwiches. No glass of soft drink today; only bottled water from the bus cooler.
Security in China is a little different than here in the US. There is definitely no TSA Precheck, but we don't have to take off our shoes and jackets. However, everyone seems to set off the metal detectors, resulting in each of us being wanded. They do have female agents to wand the ladies, so I appreciate that. There are random hand swabs done, and I get that on this first flight.
We find our gate, and as we're waiting to board, an announcement is made in Chinese, and Jack jumps up and informs us that there's been a gate change. Good thing we had him, as this announcement wasn't made in English! Off we trot to our new gate (think ducklings again), where the flight is soon ready to board. No zone boarding here; everyone lines up and gets on at the same time, and it's a surprisingly quick process. The airline computers have assigned our seats and we've been warned we might not be sitting together, but today David and I hit the mother lode: we're in aisle seats across from each other.
After an hour-long flight, we land in Xian, where we wait at baggage claim to identify our bags. We won't see them again until they're delivered to our rooms by the Viking porters. Flying from city to city isn't my favorite part of this trip, but Viking makes it as easy on us as they can. We're greeted by a new Jack's Bus, which takes us to the Crowne Plaza Hotel. While still a 5-star hotel, it's not as new as the Kerry, but still nice. But what strikes me most is the air quality. The pollution in Beijing was awful, but Xian is even worse. The scene outside our hotel window looks like a movie set depicting the Earth dying....Bladerunner?
After dinner at a local restaurant, we settle in for the night.
After our delightful visit, the rickshaws carry us to a courtyard flanked by large bell towers, which were used in ancient times to mark the time, announce ceremonies, or call residents to prayer. Inside one of the buildings is a tea house; certainly not the traditional one, but one set up specifically for tourists. There we learn about and sample various types of teas, and are shown the proper way to brew each type. Of course, following the demonstration there's the inevitable opportunity to shop for the products we've just sampled, with, of course, a special discount just for our group.
I do wonder, however, why they served us multiple cups of tea when the Happy House is a 2-star accommodation, at best.
Today we will be flying to Xian; this is our first experience flying with the tour. Viking has a very well-organized system for this, and we definitely appreciate it. We're given color-coded tags for our suitcases; these will tell the Viking porters which hotel our bags will go to upon arrival in Xian. We were given our schedule last evening, and left our bags outside our hotel room door at the appropriate time. Jack has arranged with the airline to accept copies of our passports to issue our boarding passes. Once we get off our bus at the airport in Beijing, Jack is met by a Viking employee, who has already checked us all in and has all of our boarding passes. Our bags have been checked for us, and we head to our departure gate. Very smooth.
The downside is that there's not time for a sit-down lunch today, so we're given a box lunch to eat on the bus. Today's presentation isn't awful; the cheesecake makes up for the soggy sandwiches. No glass of soft drink today; only bottled water from the bus cooler.
Security in China is a little different than here in the US. There is definitely no TSA Precheck, but we don't have to take off our shoes and jackets. However, everyone seems to set off the metal detectors, resulting in each of us being wanded. They do have female agents to wand the ladies, so I appreciate that. There are random hand swabs done, and I get that on this first flight.
We find our gate, and as we're waiting to board, an announcement is made in Chinese, and Jack jumps up and informs us that there's been a gate change. Good thing we had him, as this announcement wasn't made in English! Off we trot to our new gate (think ducklings again), where the flight is soon ready to board. No zone boarding here; everyone lines up and gets on at the same time, and it's a surprisingly quick process. The airline computers have assigned our seats and we've been warned we might not be sitting together, but today David and I hit the mother lode: we're in aisle seats across from each other.
After an hour-long flight, we land in Xian, where we wait at baggage claim to identify our bags. We won't see them again until they're delivered to our rooms by the Viking porters. Flying from city to city isn't my favorite part of this trip, but Viking makes it as easy on us as they can. We're greeted by a new Jack's Bus, which takes us to the Crowne Plaza Hotel. While still a 5-star hotel, it's not as new as the Kerry, but still nice. But what strikes me most is the air quality. The pollution in Beijing was awful, but Xian is even worse. The scene outside our hotel window looks like a movie set depicting the Earth dying....Bladerunner?
After dinner at a local restaurant, we settle in for the night.
Monday, May 26, 2014
A Rainy Rickshaw Ride
May 11, 2014
When I booked our trip, I had the choice of a Shanghai to Beijing route or Beijing to Shanghai. I chose the latter for two reasons: first, I felt that having the bulk of the city touring at the beginning of the trip with the ship part towards the end would be more relaxing, and second, the rickshaw ride was available only on the Beijing to Shanghai route. To say I was looking forward to this day is an understatement. The weather had been threatening rain since we arrived, so of course, today the skies opened up.
Jack's Bus takes us to the Hutongs area of Old Beijing. Hutongs means narrow, ancient alleys, and these are just that. We choose our rickshaw and climb inside; fortunately the driver has installed the rain curtains, which keep us somewhat dry. Unfortunately, these same curtains somewhat impede our view, but not enough to ruin the experience. I'm a little disappointed that the rickshaw is a pedicab, powered by our driver pedaling a bicycle, and not being pulled on foot; but that disappointment is short-lived. Our driver holds his umbrella over his head with one hand, and maneuvers the teeny, two-way alleys with the other, adroitly staying away from oncoming traffic of both the rickshaw and car variety.
After a short ride, we stop at the home of a local Chinese family, who has invited our group inside to experience local Beijing life in this traditional neighborhood. The home is quite small, around 300 square feet, but the homeowner lives there by herself, with her dog, so it's enough for her. We're seated on stools placed around the living room, where she serves us delicious and warming Jasmine tea. She doesn't speak English, but our guide translates her story: Before the Cultural Revolution, her grandfather owned this house, which at that time was much larger and was the multi-generational home. He was an artist, skilled in the art of inner painting. Mao's revolution's stated goal was to enforce communism in the country by removing capitalist, traditional, and cultural elements from Chinese society. Because of this, many of these old skills were lost, but this woman's grandfather secretly taught her, and she subsequently taught her niece, the art of inner painting.
Inner painting is the painting of intricate pictures on the inside surface of a glass vessel. This is done with a special brush with bristles which are bent at a 90-degree angle. The brush is carefully placed in the narrow neck of the bottle, and the designs are drawn, in reverse, on the inside of the glass. The talented niece demonstrates how she does this, and it's pretty amazing. In no time at all, she's painted a simple bird on the inside of a tiny bottle. Of course, the larger designs take more time; some pieces take several weeks to complete.
As we were riding to this home, we noticed many Happy Houses along the way, and correctly assume that these homes do not have indoor plumbing. The kitchen is a tiny passageway, with a stove and a sink, but I don't think there was any running water in there. Perhaps they do have water, but just not sanitary facilities. In any event, it certainly is a different way of life, and one I'm so glad to have witnessed.
Today was my favorite day of the trip.
When I booked our trip, I had the choice of a Shanghai to Beijing route or Beijing to Shanghai. I chose the latter for two reasons: first, I felt that having the bulk of the city touring at the beginning of the trip with the ship part towards the end would be more relaxing, and second, the rickshaw ride was available only on the Beijing to Shanghai route. To say I was looking forward to this day is an understatement. The weather had been threatening rain since we arrived, so of course, today the skies opened up.
Jack's Bus takes us to the Hutongs area of Old Beijing. Hutongs means narrow, ancient alleys, and these are just that. We choose our rickshaw and climb inside; fortunately the driver has installed the rain curtains, which keep us somewhat dry. Unfortunately, these same curtains somewhat impede our view, but not enough to ruin the experience. I'm a little disappointed that the rickshaw is a pedicab, powered by our driver pedaling a bicycle, and not being pulled on foot; but that disappointment is short-lived. Our driver holds his umbrella over his head with one hand, and maneuvers the teeny, two-way alleys with the other, adroitly staying away from oncoming traffic of both the rickshaw and car variety.
After a short ride, we stop at the home of a local Chinese family, who has invited our group inside to experience local Beijing life in this traditional neighborhood. The home is quite small, around 300 square feet, but the homeowner lives there by herself, with her dog, so it's enough for her. We're seated on stools placed around the living room, where she serves us delicious and warming Jasmine tea. She doesn't speak English, but our guide translates her story: Before the Cultural Revolution, her grandfather owned this house, which at that time was much larger and was the multi-generational home. He was an artist, skilled in the art of inner painting. Mao's revolution's stated goal was to enforce communism in the country by removing capitalist, traditional, and cultural elements from Chinese society. Because of this, many of these old skills were lost, but this woman's grandfather secretly taught her, and she subsequently taught her niece, the art of inner painting.
Inner painting is the painting of intricate pictures on the inside surface of a glass vessel. This is done with a special brush with bristles which are bent at a 90-degree angle. The brush is carefully placed in the narrow neck of the bottle, and the designs are drawn, in reverse, on the inside of the glass. The talented niece demonstrates how she does this, and it's pretty amazing. In no time at all, she's painted a simple bird on the inside of a tiny bottle. Of course, the larger designs take more time; some pieces take several weeks to complete.
As we were riding to this home, we noticed many Happy Houses along the way, and correctly assume that these homes do not have indoor plumbing. The kitchen is a tiny passageway, with a stove and a sink, but I don't think there was any running water in there. Perhaps they do have water, but just not sanitary facilities. In any event, it certainly is a different way of life, and one I'm so glad to have witnessed.
Today was my favorite day of the trip.
Sacred Way of Ming Tombs
May 10, 2014
After lunch Jack's Bus takes us to the valley which the Ming Emperors chose as their burial place. While we don't actually get a close-up view of the tombs themselves, we do walk along a beautiful avenue lined with massive stone sculptures of men and mythical beasts.
Afterwards we return to our hotel, where some chose the optional Peking Duck Dinner excursion. I had read on TripAdvisor that this dinner was not good, so we chose to have dinner at a local restaurant along with some leisure time. In talking to friends later in the trip, we may have made the wrong decision, as those who attended the dinner seemed to enjoy it very much.
After lunch Jack's Bus takes us to the valley which the Ming Emperors chose as their burial place. While we don't actually get a close-up view of the tombs themselves, we do walk along a beautiful avenue lined with massive stone sculptures of men and mythical beasts.
Afterwards we return to our hotel, where some chose the optional Peking Duck Dinner excursion. I had read on TripAdvisor that this dinner was not good, so we chose to have dinner at a local restaurant along with some leisure time. In talking to friends later in the trip, we may have made the wrong decision, as those who attended the dinner seemed to enjoy it very much.
Lunch or Dinner in a Local Restaurant
May 10, 2014
While all of our breakfasts and some of our dinners are in the restaurant of the hotel where we're staying, most lunches and some dinners are in local restaurants. When I first saw the itinerary, I envisioned the tiny two-or three-table restaurants that I had seen on travel shows, and that David had told me about from his trips to Tokyo and Shanghai. Of course, our group is much too big to be accommodated in these places, so the local restaurants where we go are specifically set up for tourism.
In fact, our group is even larger than you might believe, because the Viking Emerald, which we will be boarding on Tuesday, holds 256 guests, and they are all a part of our larger group. So in addition to Jack's Group, there's Peter's Group, Riqui's Group, Ray's Group, Arnold's Group, and probably a couple more that I don't remember. (None of them their Chinese name). The timing of our meals and tours is orchestrated so as to avoid our all being in the exact same place at the exact same time, and it's done quite well. So while we're all eating in the same restaurant, we arrive a few minutes apart to avoid a huge crush.
Today we experience our first true lunch in a local restaurant. These restaurants feature round tables that seat eight or ten, with a glass lazy susan in the center of the table. Meals are served family-style, with bowls of food placed on the lazy susan, which we turn to serve ourselves. Jack has explained that etiquette requires that you take only "one piece" from the bowl the first time around, so that everyone has the chance to try the food, then you can take more the second time. Servers are rapidly placing bowl after bowl of food on the turntable with something new, and sometimes remove the not-quite-empty ones before they make it around the second time. To me, the atmosphere is quite rushed; I'd like to take more time to savor the flavors of one item before I'm forced to try another. But, that's the way it is, and there are nine other people at the table who feel differently. OK, only eight...David agrees with me, of course.
In this particular restaurant, the lazy susan is just a bit too big for the table, and as it's turned around, the dishes or serving pieces hanging off the edge come precariously close to knocking over our one glass of soft drink.
I wonder if we could get a free refill if that happened.
While all of our breakfasts and some of our dinners are in the restaurant of the hotel where we're staying, most lunches and some dinners are in local restaurants. When I first saw the itinerary, I envisioned the tiny two-or three-table restaurants that I had seen on travel shows, and that David had told me about from his trips to Tokyo and Shanghai. Of course, our group is much too big to be accommodated in these places, so the local restaurants where we go are specifically set up for tourism.
In fact, our group is even larger than you might believe, because the Viking Emerald, which we will be boarding on Tuesday, holds 256 guests, and they are all a part of our larger group. So in addition to Jack's Group, there's Peter's Group, Riqui's Group, Ray's Group, Arnold's Group, and probably a couple more that I don't remember. (None of them their Chinese name). The timing of our meals and tours is orchestrated so as to avoid our all being in the exact same place at the exact same time, and it's done quite well. So while we're all eating in the same restaurant, we arrive a few minutes apart to avoid a huge crush.
Today we experience our first true lunch in a local restaurant. These restaurants feature round tables that seat eight or ten, with a glass lazy susan in the center of the table. Meals are served family-style, with bowls of food placed on the lazy susan, which we turn to serve ourselves. Jack has explained that etiquette requires that you take only "one piece" from the bowl the first time around, so that everyone has the chance to try the food, then you can take more the second time. Servers are rapidly placing bowl after bowl of food on the turntable with something new, and sometimes remove the not-quite-empty ones before they make it around the second time. To me, the atmosphere is quite rushed; I'd like to take more time to savor the flavors of one item before I'm forced to try another. But, that's the way it is, and there are nine other people at the table who feel differently. OK, only eight...David agrees with me, of course.
In this particular restaurant, the lazy susan is just a bit too big for the table, and as it's turned around, the dishes or serving pieces hanging off the edge come precariously close to knocking over our one glass of soft drink.
I wonder if we could get a free refill if that happened.
Sunday, May 25, 2014
The Great Wall
May 10, 2014
After another delicious breakfast at the Kerry Hotel, we boarded Jack's Bus for a longer than normal ride to the Badaling Hills, where we will have the opportunity to see a portion of the Great Wall of China. We are told that here the Wall is nearly 28 feet tall, and wide enough for ten people to walk along, shoulder-to-shoulder. I have verified that in fact, more than ten people can walk along....and we did.
Overall, the Wall is just spectacular, at one time stretching for over 6,200 miles and symbolizing the country's isolation from the rest of the world. The area we are touring today is the first one opened to tourists.
There are two sections of the wall here, branching out to the North and the South from the central plaza of sorts. The Southern section is steeper and therefore less crowded, so we opt for that section. Parts of the wall are just like walking up a steep ramp, and others are so steep that there are actually stairs built into the wall. Clearly in 700 BC when the wall was built, building codes were a tad more lax than they are now. The steps are extremely narrow, and no two are the same height. The rails are obviously made for people much shorter than I. We're determined to make it to the top, and we do, and only then do we realize that coming back down is going to be even more precarious than going up. Once we finally make it back to the point of beginning, we check the time and there's still over an hour remaining before we are to meet the rest of Jack's Group, so...
Up we head on the North side. To say this side is more crowded is putting it mildly. We're shoulder-to-shoulder with thousands of people as we climb this section of the wall. At least this side is slightly, and I repeat, just slightly, less steep than the other; but it's longer. By the time we get to the top and turn around to head back, my Fitbit vibrates to let me know I've met my goal of 12,500 steps for the day. Too bad it couldn't record the altitude!
Having scaled both available sections of the Wall, we still had a few minutes before our group was to leave, so we found a somewhat cold beer in a little store and sat on a wall (not a Great one) for a short rest before boarding our bus.
After another delicious breakfast at the Kerry Hotel, we boarded Jack's Bus for a longer than normal ride to the Badaling Hills, where we will have the opportunity to see a portion of the Great Wall of China. We are told that here the Wall is nearly 28 feet tall, and wide enough for ten people to walk along, shoulder-to-shoulder. I have verified that in fact, more than ten people can walk along....and we did.
Overall, the Wall is just spectacular, at one time stretching for over 6,200 miles and symbolizing the country's isolation from the rest of the world. The area we are touring today is the first one opened to tourists.
There are two sections of the wall here, branching out to the North and the South from the central plaza of sorts. The Southern section is steeper and therefore less crowded, so we opt for that section. Parts of the wall are just like walking up a steep ramp, and others are so steep that there are actually stairs built into the wall. Clearly in 700 BC when the wall was built, building codes were a tad more lax than they are now. The steps are extremely narrow, and no two are the same height. The rails are obviously made for people much shorter than I. We're determined to make it to the top, and we do, and only then do we realize that coming back down is going to be even more precarious than going up. Once we finally make it back to the point of beginning, we check the time and there's still over an hour remaining before we are to meet the rest of Jack's Group, so...
Up we head on the North side. To say this side is more crowded is putting it mildly. We're shoulder-to-shoulder with thousands of people as we climb this section of the wall. At least this side is slightly, and I repeat, just slightly, less steep than the other; but it's longer. By the time we get to the top and turn around to head back, my Fitbit vibrates to let me know I've met my goal of 12,500 steps for the day. Too bad it couldn't record the altitude!
Having scaled both available sections of the Wall, we still had a few minutes before our group was to leave, so we found a somewhat cold beer in a little store and sat on a wall (not a Great one) for a short rest before boarding our bus.
Saturday, May 24, 2014
One Glass of Soft Drink
May 9, 2014
Once we board our Viking ship, we'll have unlimited "house" wines and soft drinks, but while on the land portion of the tour, the contract with each restaurant is different. Jack repeatedly reminds us that the policy is one glass of soft drink per person. Then, at many places, the restaurant is generous enough to provide unlimited soft drinks. Soft drinks include beer, and the local Chinese beers are actually pretty good. Still, I'd love a nice glass of wine. So far the only wine we've seen anywhere is the Chinese plum wine, which I haven't tried, but I'm thinking must be pretty sweet.
So before tonight's dinner at the Kerry, we stop by the bar on the first floor of the hotel to see if we can get a decent glass of wine or perhaps a cocktail. Looking at prices here is always a bit disconcerting, as everything is priced in the Chinese Yuan, or RNB, which is 6.2 to the dollar. So an 85 RNB glass of wine isn't quite as expensive as it seems at first, but still it's over $13.00. But wait...it's happy hour, so two for one! I order a glass of a French Bordeaux, and David has a Caipirinha, which are delivered along with some peanuts. Mmmmm, good wine! So after another glass, we head into the hotel restaurant for our included dinner.
Again, it's buffet style, with both Chinese and American choices. We each have a little of this and a little of that...it's all ok, but nothing exceptional in my book. Buffets have never been my favorite.
I knew from the beginning that this vacation would not be about the food. Tomorrow the Great Wall!
Once we board our Viking ship, we'll have unlimited "house" wines and soft drinks, but while on the land portion of the tour, the contract with each restaurant is different. Jack repeatedly reminds us that the policy is one glass of soft drink per person. Then, at many places, the restaurant is generous enough to provide unlimited soft drinks. Soft drinks include beer, and the local Chinese beers are actually pretty good. Still, I'd love a nice glass of wine. So far the only wine we've seen anywhere is the Chinese plum wine, which I haven't tried, but I'm thinking must be pretty sweet.
So before tonight's dinner at the Kerry, we stop by the bar on the first floor of the hotel to see if we can get a decent glass of wine or perhaps a cocktail. Looking at prices here is always a bit disconcerting, as everything is priced in the Chinese Yuan, or RNB, which is 6.2 to the dollar. So an 85 RNB glass of wine isn't quite as expensive as it seems at first, but still it's over $13.00. But wait...it's happy hour, so two for one! I order a glass of a French Bordeaux, and David has a Caipirinha, which are delivered along with some peanuts. Mmmmm, good wine! So after another glass, we head into the hotel restaurant for our included dinner.
Again, it's buffet style, with both Chinese and American choices. We each have a little of this and a little of that...it's all ok, but nothing exceptional in my book. Buffets have never been my favorite.
I knew from the beginning that this vacation would not be about the food. Tomorrow the Great Wall!
Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City
May 9, 2014
After a good night's sleep, I'm up at 4:30 AM, ready for our first full day in China. The breakfast buffet at the Kerry is pretty spectacular, with different sections for American-style and Chinese-style foods, as well as pastries, cereal, homemade yogurt, fresh fruit and juices. One delicious item is a smoked fish, which becomes a favorite of mine on breakfast buffets. Delicious dumplings are a treat. Some are more bready, risen dough stuffed with a small amount of bean paste or other delights and then steamed and served in a bamboo steamer. These are completely smooth and look like a yeast roll that hasn't been allowed to brown. Others are the more familiar style made with a pasta dough, filled with pork or vegetables, and pinched closed to make an adorable package. Served with several sauces, including an incendiary chili sauce, they're fascinating and delicious. There are soups, which can be made-to-order by adding noodles, meats, fish, veggies, and seasonings to a pot and heating them through; Chinese cooks are waiting anxiously for my order! I wish I could have just spent the entire day exploring this fabulous smorgasbord, but alas, Beijing awaits.
We meet Jack (not his Chinese name) in the hotel lobby. Jack will be our guide for the entire trip, and is so much more than just a guide. He'll coordinate pretty much every part of our trip, ensure our safety, and provide mountains of information about the country and all the places we visit. We board Jack's Bus where we head off for "about one hour's drive" to Tiananmen Square. Everywhere we go is "about one hour's drive". While we're riding, Jack passes out the vox units that we'll use to hear his commentary on the sights, as well as to keep us together in crowded places. More than once we'll hear, "Jack's Group, this way. Follow my flag".
To get into the Square from the bus, we must cross a busy street, where Jack is careful to explain that in China, traffic lights are just a suggestion. He's not kidding. The light turns red, the pedestrian crossing light comes on, and vehicles just keep coming. Cars, buses, motorcycles, trucks....you name it, they just keep coming. Turn right on red is in play here, but not after stopping as in the US, and pedestrians definitely do not have the right of way, even in a crosswalk. We safely cross the street, scampering behind Jack and his flag like ducklings behind mama duck, and merge into the crowds in the Square.
Those of my generation will remember Tiananmen Square as the place where the Chinese protester challenged a tank in 1989. That actually didn't happen in the square, but on a nearby street; and demonstrations are still not uncommon. We're struck by the long lines of Chinese people waiting to honor Mao Zedong, whose tomb is in the square.
Tiananmen is the doorway to the Forbidden City, which was the imperial palace during the Ming and Qing Dynasties. For five centuries visitors were forbidden in this area. A huge part of the area is outside courtyards and buildings were ceremonies were held, the palace itself is also huge but smaller than the ceremonial areas. We aren't able to enter the palace itself, but can see inside through the doors.
After our tour, our bus takes us to a local restaurant where we have a buffet lunch. This lunch is a disappointment, as the food is pretty Americanized and not the traditional Chinese we hope to enjoy on the trip. Later in the trip I would have appreciated some American food, but it's too soon now.
After a good night's sleep, I'm up at 4:30 AM, ready for our first full day in China. The breakfast buffet at the Kerry is pretty spectacular, with different sections for American-style and Chinese-style foods, as well as pastries, cereal, homemade yogurt, fresh fruit and juices. One delicious item is a smoked fish, which becomes a favorite of mine on breakfast buffets. Delicious dumplings are a treat. Some are more bready, risen dough stuffed with a small amount of bean paste or other delights and then steamed and served in a bamboo steamer. These are completely smooth and look like a yeast roll that hasn't been allowed to brown. Others are the more familiar style made with a pasta dough, filled with pork or vegetables, and pinched closed to make an adorable package. Served with several sauces, including an incendiary chili sauce, they're fascinating and delicious. There are soups, which can be made-to-order by adding noodles, meats, fish, veggies, and seasonings to a pot and heating them through; Chinese cooks are waiting anxiously for my order! I wish I could have just spent the entire day exploring this fabulous smorgasbord, but alas, Beijing awaits.
We meet Jack (not his Chinese name) in the hotel lobby. Jack will be our guide for the entire trip, and is so much more than just a guide. He'll coordinate pretty much every part of our trip, ensure our safety, and provide mountains of information about the country and all the places we visit. We board Jack's Bus where we head off for "about one hour's drive" to Tiananmen Square. Everywhere we go is "about one hour's drive". While we're riding, Jack passes out the vox units that we'll use to hear his commentary on the sights, as well as to keep us together in crowded places. More than once we'll hear, "Jack's Group, this way. Follow my flag".
To get into the Square from the bus, we must cross a busy street, where Jack is careful to explain that in China, traffic lights are just a suggestion. He's not kidding. The light turns red, the pedestrian crossing light comes on, and vehicles just keep coming. Cars, buses, motorcycles, trucks....you name it, they just keep coming. Turn right on red is in play here, but not after stopping as in the US, and pedestrians definitely do not have the right of way, even in a crosswalk. We safely cross the street, scampering behind Jack and his flag like ducklings behind mama duck, and merge into the crowds in the Square.
Those of my generation will remember Tiananmen Square as the place where the Chinese protester challenged a tank in 1989. That actually didn't happen in the square, but on a nearby street; and demonstrations are still not uncommon. We're struck by the long lines of Chinese people waiting to honor Mao Zedong, whose tomb is in the square.
Tiananmen is the doorway to the Forbidden City, which was the imperial palace during the Ming and Qing Dynasties. For five centuries visitors were forbidden in this area. A huge part of the area is outside courtyards and buildings were ceremonies were held, the palace itself is also huge but smaller than the ceremonial areas. We aren't able to enter the palace itself, but can see inside through the doors.
After our tour, our bus takes us to a local restaurant where we have a buffet lunch. This lunch is a disappointment, as the food is pretty Americanized and not the traditional Chinese we hope to enjoy on the trip. Later in the trip I would have appreciated some American food, but it's too soon now.
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